– Foreword –
– Installation –
– Adjust Height –
– Set Pitch Angle –

– Adjust Cover Tension –
– Seat Cover Removal –
– Seat Cover Care –
– Useful Riding Tips –


While all bicycles have obvious similarities, they are all ever-so-slightly different from a geometric perspective. Therefore, of the thousands of brands and tens of millions of bicycles manufactured over the past 50 years, it is impossible for us to pre-set our RealSeat in such a configuration where it won’t require a simple adjustment or two from rider to optimize seat for their particular bicycle.

Simply put, a little common sense combined with both an adjustment of the seats overall height (by lowering or raising the seat from the pedals) or an adjustment of the seats pitch angle (by pivoting it fore or aft a few degrees) will make all the difference in the world to enhance comfort and usability.

And while we do indeed believe our RealSeat is a significant improvement from the ‘crotch crushers’ that are traditional saddles, it is by no means perfect. So if you somehow expect your rear end to be magically suspended in perpetual weightlessness in defiance of the principle laws of your own gravity, then you are deeply mistaken and should consider an alternate load bearing device.

However, if you happen to be one of the untold millions who can no longer tolerate a saddle, and you want to ensure that you discover all of RealSeat’s comfort potential, it is then imperative that you take 10 minutes and consult this ‘easy to read’ page in its entirety.



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RealSeat will only install onto what is referred to as a ‘pillar’ style of seat post shaft. For pillar seat post shafts (EXP. A) have a main shaft diameter that tapers down to a diameter of 7/8 of an inch at the very top end of the shaft and is what our seats mount will clamp onto and around. So, if you already have this style of seat post shaft then skip down to section #2.

As a general rule ‘integrated’ style seat post shafts (EXP. B) are routinely included as original equipment on high end bicycle brands like Cannondale, Trek, Specialized, Jamis, etc. sold at bike shops unlike bicycles sold at discounters like WalMart, Target and the like that typically come standard with a pillar style seat post shaft for use with RealSeat.

So, if your seat post shaft resembles (EXP. B) where a claw style clamp is physically attached to the top of the shaft itself then you do indeed have an ‘integrated’ seat post shaft and you will have to replace it with a ‘pillar’ seat post.



Before you can replace an ‘integrated’ seat post with a ‘pillar’ seat post you will first need to remove the shaft from your bicycle to determine its diameter, Typically, the main diameter is often stamped directly on the shaft itself below its minimum insertion line. And, if the diameter is not stamped on shaft it will then need to be measured with a pair of calipers or micrometers to establish its diameter.


Since some ‘integrated’ style seat post shafts have shaft diameters that are larger than their ‘pillar’ cousin you may have to use a ‘seat post shim’ in conjunction with a replacement shaft. For example if your seat post shaft is 30.9mm in diameter you will need both a 27.2mm seat post shaft and 27.2/30.9mm seat post shim.


We offer a full assortment of replacement pillar style seat posts and seat post shims (if needed) available for sale on our BUY HERE web page -OR- you can visit your local bike shop to acquire the exact size replacement for use with our seat.


Start by locating the bored shaft hole on the seats mount and gently lower the seat until it is fully seated to the top of the pillar seat post shaft and square up the front edge of the seats cover with the main crossbar of the bike.

NOTE: In rare instances it may be necessary to spread slit apart slightly on the seats mount with wedged screw driver (back screws off first and place screwdriver between screws to wedge) to accommodate seat post shafts that are slightly over-sized with paint build-up.

After the seat has been placed fully on top of seat post shaft locate the (2) hex head cap screws threaded into the seats mount and tighten each hex head cap screw ‘back & forth’ with a 6mm Allen wrench until they are equally and extensively tightened.

Next, make certain that the seat post shaft clamp or quick release (aka.. the bolt that came with your bike that you loosen and tightened to raise or lower the seats overall height) is also extensively tightened.

To verify and complete the installation it is necessary to test that BOTH the seat is secured tightly to the top end of the seat post shaft -AND- that the seat post shaft clamp/quick release is also sufficiently tightened by straddling the rear tire and with reasonable force laterally tug on the seat as to verify that it will not unduly shift when in use.

And if the seat should ever shift while in use you will then have to pinpoint whether it is the mount on the seat -OR- if it is the seat post shaft that is slipping and re-tighten further.

Just be careful that you don’t over-tighten and strip-out any threads!

Lastly, keep in mind our line of extra wide bicycle seats exert far greater lateral (left to right) leverage on a seat post shaft than what a saddle does during use. So, if you couple this with the realization that all components that need tightened to install and use our seat are ROUND it should be clear to any novic why all hardware needs to be sufficiently tightened to alleviate shifting of seat.

Adjust Height

After you have attached and fully tightened your RealSeat to the seat post you will more than likely need to lower overall height of the seat from the ground because the vertical height of our RealSeat is taller than the saddle that came with your bike. So, it is advisable that you first lower the seat an inch or two before taking your very first test ride.


Since ALL RealSeat seat covers have safety reflectors sewn to rear of seat cover you can safely remove the plastic reflector assembly that is often times wrapped around seat post shaft that came with bicycle to lower seat upwards of an additional inch.


Loosen the bolt/quick release on the seat post clamp (attached to your bike) and raise or lower your seat post and re-tighten.

Next, level the seat with ground to prepare for your very first ‘test ride’.

Set Pitch Angle

 To change the pitch angle of the seat locate and loosen the 14mm flange head nut threaded onto the carriage bolt on the right side of the seat frames bracket slot and re-pivot the seat fore or aft and re-tighten nut.

Important Note: Before taking off for very first time please make certain your tires on bicycle are properly inflated. For if your bicycle has under inflated tires you will have to push harder than normal (and on seat!) just to get bike moving forward.

Now to try seat for the very first time place yourself on bicycle wherein you straddle the main crossbar of bike with one foot to the ground and the other foot resting atop a down-stroked pedal.

And with your grounded foot give yourself a strong push-off to get the bike moving BEFORE you attempt to sit in the seat.

Upon completion of your first test ride you will likely now want to experiment with the seat by adjusting or fine tuning the pitch angle or height to optimize ride. For a couple degrees difference in pitch angle (fore or aft) and/or a reduction or raising of the seats height from pedals or ground can have a major affect on the overall level of comfort and performance. But one thing is absolutely certain – the seat will not adjust itself!

And, please, until such time you have mastered its use, do NOT take-off while seated.


The reason we do not recommend that first time users take off while fully seated is because all to often you risk the seat shifting because one has pushed too hard on seat with back of their thigh just trying to get the bicycle moving forward when first beginning to pedal. In other words, the seat is not a leg press and it WILL shift if unduly forced!





1) The (level position) is best suited for the casual riders who wants to place their full body weight on the seat.

2) The (forward position) is best suited for endurance cyclist who desire maximum leg extension and instead use a seat more to rest their legs during a long ride than to rest their behind.

3) The (backward position) is best suited for riders who have their pedals in a more forward position (versus a traditional bicycle).


Depending on what style of bicycle you ride and what angle and height you set the seat some negligible pressure to the back of your legs may be unavoidable. And while altering the angle & height will reduce pressure it may not eliminate it entirely either.

Adjust Cover Tension

Due to minor fabric stretch from use, periodic tightening may be needed to maintain tension, especially after the seats first use.


Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, secure seat to apply leverage (SEE ABOVE PHOTO ON RIGHT) to tighten webbing then re-mate hook & loop together.


Locate the 2 webbing straps underneath the cover and pull apart the hook & loop closure sewn to the 2 webbing straps. Next, lift up on the metal buckles to release the webbing tension then re-mate hook & loop.

Seat Cover Removal

The Velcro-like fastener in our seat covers is not of an ordinary variety, it is a ‘low cycle – high shear’ specialty hook & loop. When the hook & loop is properly mated/mashed together, it becomes extremely difficult to pull apart. To pull apart hook & loop, work your fingers in between the two to separate.

Seat Cover Care

If, at first, you can’t get cover clean with a damp wash cloth then:

1.) Immerse with water
2.) Apply liquid dish soap
3.) Scrub with bristle brush
4.) Rinse with garden hose
5.) Allow to dry thoroughly

NOTE: To prolong seat cover life and color, avoid unnecessary exposure to sunlight and/or the elements.

Useful Riding Tips

TIP #1: Unless you are VERY limber and can easily swing your leg over the entire seat without falling over it is a good idea instead to lean the bicycle to one side wherein you lift your leg over the main crossbar of your bicycle.

TIP #2: When trying RealSeat for the very first time start by straddling the crossbar positioning the bike between your legs. When you are ready to take off place one foot on a down-stroked pedal and with your other foot firmly planted to ground give yourself a good push-off to get rolling. And once you get pedaling and going forward under full power begin to sit and settle down into your new comfy RealSeat.